Umami Christmas
Stephen Doyle
It’s all about balance
When you will have had all the rich seafoods, hams, creamy cheeses and desserts with impactful exotic wines, the next day it'll be brown rice and soy that I crave.
What I've recommended here are food and wine suggestions for the days between the big celebrations, where time slows down, you have to pivot leftovers. Try more savoury and umami flavours to recalibrate the senses. "We wish you 'n umami Christmas........."
Create your own Umami holiday period
Keep some traditions and create some new ones (for leftovers I mean.) What are your favourites?
USEFUL TIPS
Have some handy puff pastry in the freezer and a well stocked pantry.
Get your butcher to cryovac your meats to extend their shelf life, try not to double up on the same flavours too much, have some pork mince on hand or in the freezer for a quick tasty meal or meat loaf and employ some shortcuts if you can.
Starters
MARBLED EGGS + SOY, SESAME MAYONNAISE
Nigella made devilled eggs sexy again but when you have more tea than you can drink, tea soaked eggs transform the humble boiled egg into a work of art.
Best served with 2017 Bloodwood Riesling. Also with 2017 Bloodwood Schubert
Ingredients
12 eggs
1 cup tea leaves
Mustard micro herbs /greens
See this SBS writer who has improved on the recipe I was going to give you. https://www.sbs.com.au/food/article/2020/11/19/way-my-grandmother-instilled-my-love-tea-eggs
Mayonaise
Egg yolks
Grape seed oil and peanut oil mix and splash of sesame oil
Mustard powder
Soy sauce
Ginger juice (grate ginger and squeeze out juice from the pulp)
Sushi rice vinegar
Seasoning to taste
Make your own. (Early cookbooks used to list ingredients and not detail the method as most were supposed to know what to do. Here I've been brief and followed their example. You have the internet at your disposal.)
Method
Boil to soft yolk stage, cool and crack the shell and refer to the SBS recipe or others you prefer
Shortcuts
Buy mayonnaise. Tried S & M whole egg mayonnaise and it is so salty. Try to add low salt Tamari or the less salty dark soy to keep the level down. Reckon kewpie mayo would be just as salty. Stir in those umami flavours.
Serve like sang choi bau i.e. egg half in a lettuce leaf with a cover of mayonnaise and mustard micro herbs on top.
Starters
Don't bother mucking about with fiddly little bite sized morsels. One per person is all you need for these but it'd be best to consume them whilst sitting. For an extra bit of bling, splurge with the caviar.
Serve with 2017 Bloodwood Riesling or if you have some in stock icy cold 2009 Bloodwood Chirac
Ingredients
Corn tortilla (entree plate sized)
Enough light oil to shallow fry the tortillas
Avocado
Smoked trout (de-boned and flaked)
Sour cream
Lime juice
Mini tomatoes
Cucumber (finely chopped)
Spring onions, coriander, garlic and chilli (all finely chopped)
GARNISH OPTIONAL
Salmon caviar
Method
Shallow fry the corn tortilla and drain on absorbent paper.
Mash the avocado, add lime juice salt and pepper. Cover with a thin layer of sour cream and top with decorative bits of tiny tomatoes, cucumber, flaked smoked trout, appropriate herbs and perhaps salmon caviar
Shortcuts
Again this is more food arranging rather than cooking.
Entree
Yep, it is time to resurrect the sun dried tomato and experience their intense umami flavours. I enjoy the taste of turkey but not the texture - it can be a bit like eating cardboard. Marinate it in the dressing to moisten the meat if roasting made it too dry.
Serve with 2017 Bloodwood Schubert, 2016 Bloodwood Pinot Noir* or 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon. Not bad with the 2014 Merlot Noir* either.
(*only available by phoning Bloodwood or at the cellar door)
Ingredients
Left over turkey, shredded
Sun-dried tomatoes quartered (moisten with a touch of hot just boiled water if they are too mouth puckeringly dry)
Pine nuts (toasted)
Greens eg lettuce, basil leaves, rocket, raddichio,
A couple of radishes thinly sliced
1 Zucchini thinly sliced also
DRESSING
Olive oil
1 t grainy mustard
a splash of the wine you are drinking (harsh acidity here adversely affects the taste of the wine)
Method
Shred turkey into bite sized pieces,
Sun-dried tomatoes (soaked in scant warm water if they are achingly dry.)
Have your nuts already toasted in a jar (ie bake for 10 mins in an 150 degree oven then cool.)
This isn't cooking, just food assembly. You know how to arrange a salad.
Shortcuts
TURKEY TACOS
The success in pivoting left-overs is using dramatic spice here. Leftover turkey is transformed with Mexican spice. Add some Taco shells, shredded lettuce and grated cheese, sour cream and avocado and you have a delicious meal.
Serve with 2017 Bloodwood Schubert, 2014 Merlot Noir (cellar door only) or 2015 Cabernet Franc. Not far behind are our 2017 Riesling or 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon.
INGREDIENTS,
Leftover turkey, shredded and warmed through with Mexican spice
Cheese grated
Lettuce shredded
Runny sour cream
Avocado (optional)
Taco shells
Method
Mexican spice mix ie sweet paprika and tomato
(readily obtained from the supermarket)
Prepare all the extras
Entrée
Serve with 2016 Bloodwood Pinot Noir and 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon
Ingredients
Scotch fillet of beef cut thinly across the grain, (easier to cut meat semi frozen )
2 T Peanut oil and 2 T sesame oil
Ground black pepper
1 t miso
1 t tahini
dash of Tamari
hot water
1 packet organic soba noodles
1 large carrot (peeled and thinly sliced like noodles)
2 spring onions ( sliced thinly like noodles)
8 slices air dried beef (sliced thinly like noodles )
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
Method
Boil the noodles in salted water. At the last minute throw in the carrot to blanche it. Drain noodles when cooked and run cold water over them to stop them from
clumping. Drain well and toss into a big enough bowl with 1 T each of peanut and sesame oil. Season with ground pepper and mix through.
Sauce
Mix the tahini, miso and dash of Tamari with enough hot water to give the mix a runny cream like consistency. Pour over the noodles and toss through.
* NOTE You can serve these noodles hot, warm or cold. I prefer cold noodles and just seared beef. (Also substitute slivers of left over ham for the beef)
Shortcuts
You can have the noodles already cooked and slightly oiled to stop it sticking
Entrée
Fabulous beetroot, sweet and earthy with some tang. Mum always kept a large jar of her pickled beetroots in the fridge. (I even enjoy tinned beetroot to this day.) This grated relish is easy to manage on sandwiches.
Serve with 2016 Bloodwood Pinot Noir, 2015 Cabernet Franc, 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, pretty good with 2014 Merlot Noir and 2017 Schubert too.
Ingredients
Duck Confit
Left-over roast duck meat
Duck fat
Beetroot Relish
1 red onion (sliced)
1 carrot (grated)
3 large beetroot (cooked peeled and grated)
1T olive oil
1 orange (rind and juice)
2 t ras el hanout
1 t sumac
1 T pomegranate molasses
2T beetroot vinegar
1/3 cup of brown sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
Method
Long slow cook the duck meat in the duck fat until it easily shreds with 2 forks.
Season if necessary and pot the meat under the fat and leave in the fridge for later use.
Serve duck on oven dried thin slivers of day old baguette topped with beetroot relish.
Sauté red onion and carrot until cooked. Add beetroot and spices, flavourings and the rest of ingredients. Keep stirring until all is mixed throughly and the liquid reduces. Store in a jar in the fridge.
Shortcuts
Buy a jar of duck rillettes from Essential Ingredient
Entrée
Serve with 2016 Bloodwood Riesling, 2017 Bloodwood Schubert
Shortcuts
Buy the mushroom pasta from Harris Farm, Duck Rillettes from Essential Ingredient
Entree
A.k.a. lamb lollipops, expensive little buggers, more than $6 each for just one delicious bite.
As children, we used to have roast lamb legs for every Sunday lunch and chicken once a year at Christmas. But you had to kill your chicken first. There are so many recipes for chicken for every night of the year. The price of lamb is too prohibitive to enjoy quite so regularly.
So this year we are going to feast on marinated lamb cutlets as our rare and exotic fare.
Serve with 2015 Bloodwood Cabernet Franc
Ingredients
3 "French-ed" lamb cutlets per person- ask your butcher to do this for you.
1/2 cup of hazelnut Dukka
1/2 cup of Greek yoghurt (salted and with 1 clove of garlic crushed and mixed in)
Some pommegranate seeds and coriander leaf to garnish
Method
Season and sauté oiled chops in a pan or place on a grill. Cook to your degree of doneness.
Shortcuts
Ottolenghi without the multitude of ingredients. Treat these as a post marinade. Buy some dukka and dip the lamb lollipops in the garlic yoghurt then the dukka post cooking. No double dipping now.
CHEESE
A sheep's cheese that is not fatty so much as a touch oily.
The smell is grassy with earthy tones of truffle with a garlicky nutty flavour- just perfect with the Pinot Noir and Riesling. This truffle Pecorino is almost as good with the 2014 Merlot Noir, 2015 Caberent Franc and 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon. Least of all with the 2017 Schubert, it's ok but not as good as the others. Shave the Pecorino to get maximum flavour without the bulk.
Serve with 2016 Bloodwood Pinot Noir or 2017 Riesling
Ingredients @ Essential Ingredient or Harris Farm
Dessert
FRUIT CROSTADA
Apricots and flaked almonds or all use all red fruits like rhubarb, raspberries, strawberries, redcurrants and cherries
Serve Apricots Crostada with Bloodwood 2016 Silk Purse. A red fruits Crostada would be too rich for the dessert wine. Accompany it with Pinot Noir cherry ice cream instead.
Ingredients
Sheet of puff pastry
FRUITS -your choice.
Almond frangipane or just flaked almonds. Maybe cook the apricots first (and drain off the syrup as it makes the bottom of the pastry soggy. Dust with icing sugar. Serve with whipped cream.
Shortcuts
Buy the pastry sheets already rolled.